1 Lisbon Day 4 - Belem
- Janet's Travel Blog
- by Janet Scraper
- 12-30-2022
Today we took the train to Belem, to explore the western area of Lisbon along the Tagus River. Belem Tower is about a mile from the train station, so we walked along the river through several beautiful parks, by many lovely residences, and the Belem Palace, the Official residence of the President of Portugal.
Afonso De Albuquerque |
Belem Palace |
Gazebo in Jardim Vasco da Gama |
Among the parks is the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries). This very impressive monument is 170 feet tall and was built to commemorate the Age of Discoveries in Portugal. It was inaugurated in 1960, on the 500th Anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde. The Monument to the Discoveries is made up of a group of sculptures that represent the prow of a caravel (a small sailing ship constructed by the Portuguese to explore the Atlantic Ocean). Leading the ship is Prince Henry the Navigator and behind him are many figures who were pivotal to this era, including other explorers, scientists, cartographers, royalty, missionaries, and artists.
Monument of Discoveries |
Close-up of the figures |
There is an observation tower on top of the monument, where you can get a great view of the stunning, 164 feet diameter tile mosaic of the compass rose and world map, the Monastery de Jeronomios, across the street, and a birds-eye view of this area of Lisbon. You can reach the observation tower either by climbing stairs or by elevator.
Tile Mosaic of Compass Rose with World Map |
Riverwalk between Monument & Belem Tower |
Next, we went to the Belem Tower, located in the lovely, wooded, Jardim da Torre de Belem. Officially the Tower of Saint Vincent, the tower is a 16th-century fortification that served as a point of embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. Of course, we had to buy tickets to see the interior of the tower, which was surprisingly elaborate. We also visited the Military Museum next door, which was very informative, as we did not know much of anything about Portuguese Military history.
West side of Belem Tower |
Cannons inside the tower |
Ramparts along the River Tagus |
River side of Tower from ramparts |
East side of Tower |
In between the Tower and the Museum, there was a large tiered sitting area along the Riverwalk and a Violinist was performing. We brought a picnic for lunch today, so we found a spot, took in the music, and people-watching while we rested up and enjoyed our sandwiches and wine.
Across the street from the Belem Tower is the Mosterio dos Jeronimos, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Lisbon, so we headed over there.
Words are inadequate to describe the size and ornate beauty of this place. The Monastery of Jeronimos is the most impressive symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery. The first stone was laid in 1502 by King Manuel I, on the site of a hermitage founded by Henry the Navigator. Vasco da Gama and his crew spent the night in prayer there before his fabled trip to India in 1497. The Monastery of St. Mary of Belem was built to commemorate the safe return of Vasco da Gama and his men. King Manuel later dedicated the monastery to the Order of Jerome, whose spiritual job was to give guidance to sailors and pray for the king’s soul.
Exterior View of Monastery from west side |
Ornate Portal on the south side |
An exquisite example of European Gothic style, much of the design is characterized by elaborate sculptural details and maritime motifs. This style became known as “Manueline” and can be seen in many structures throughout Portugal. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Monument in 1983.
Many famous Portuguese are buried in the monastery, including Vasco da Gama, poets, such as Luis de Camoes, the poet who wrote the epic The Lusiads, glorifying the triumphs of De Gama and his compatriots, King Manual I and King Sabastiao.
Open Passage around Cloister |
Incredibly fine stonework |
Interior Room, Paintings of Apostles |
Refectory |
Detail of the Tile Mosaic in the Refectory |
Nave of the Church |
After this already full day, my back was hurting, but we pushed on to visit the nearby, very famous, Pasteis de Belem, the original home of the Pastel de Nata (but here, Pasteis de Belem) Founded in 1837, the pastries are handmade, following traditional methods, using an ancient recipe handed down from the Monastery of Jeronimos. This was a “must do” for me, while so close, no matter how touristy or tired we were. The line for takeout was around the block, but we noticed you could eat inside without a wait. We were seated right away. Yeah! The inside is massive and has many different rooms and is decorated in beautiful blue tiles (Azuletos). We rested and enjoyed our cappuccinos and natas. They were heavenly and hit the spot.
Line for takeout at Pasteis de Belem |
Inside, Azuletos (blue tiles) everywhere |
Cappuccinos and Natas |
Stylish Ladies' room |
Antique wash basin in Ladie's room |
Gift shop leaving Pasteis de Belem |
The train station was not too far away so we made our way home. 17.000 steps for me today, no wonder our backs hurt, and our legs are on fire. Arrived home around 5:30 pm. Poured a glass of wine, rested for a while, and then Steve went a few doors down the street and got takeout Chinese food. Pretty good, but different.
So much for Lisbon at leisure. There are so many things to see here, I‘m not sure two weeks will be enough. We are only on day 4 and feel a need to get to everything right away. Maybe week 2 will be more leisurely?